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By Claude Bouillon, John Wilkinson

The main accomplished resource at the topic, this moment variation is totally revised and multiplied to bare the newest advances, applied sciences, and tendencies in hair and hair care science-tracking the advance of hair care items, the emergence of latest regulatory practices, and the most recent equipment in product defense and efficacy overview.

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The Science of Hair Care

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100) observed that two KAP alleles were specific to Japanese population and were not found in Caucasians. 2. The Lipids Hair lipids can originate from two sources. They may arise from cell membrane remains or from the sebum adsorbed by hair in contact with the scalp. ) yields a quantity of lipids amounting to 1–9% of the hair mass and their composition closely resembles that of sebum which implies that the major part of extractable lipids results from sebaceous contamination (101–104). A more thorough extraction using a mixture of solvents at high temperature or following alkaline hydrolysis of the hair yields the constituent lipids of hair (often called internal lipids), part of them being free lipids, and another part enclosing the components of the cell membrane complex or of the epicuticle (105).

Whereas HS proteins are found in each type of cell, the UHS and HGT proteins are each exclusively located in only one type of cell: UHS proteins are found in paracortical cells only (38,98), while all the HGT proteins are to be found only in the orthocortical cells (38,42,98). The nature of KAP surrounding the IF seems to determine the spatial arrangement of IF, the presence of UHS imposing a pseudohexagonal arrangement of the IF (38). The relative amount of HGT also seems to regulate the curliness (crimp) of the fibers (37,99).

Significant progress was made based on this model, from studies with the aim of identifying the specific regions of keratin structure of the IF. They were illustrated by Feughelman’s work (248) based on the first descriptions of IF structure (54) and later by Wortmann and Zahn (238) who proposed new definitions of the X and Y zones benefiting from advances in keratin sequencing and knowledge of molecular organization of the IF. All these studies focused on IF structure while the matrix was almost completely ignored.

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