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Extra resources for Outdoor structures
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3. Positioning the frame. • Brace the end rafters temporarily with l-by-4s nailed across them. • With three helpers, lift the frame into place, setting the bird's-mouth cuts onto the crossbeams. • If necessary, remove the temporary bracing so you can adjust the fit of the rafters, and replace it when they are correctly positioned. • Toenail the rafters to the crossbeam with 31/2-inch common nails. • To strengthen the rafter-and-beam joints, add framing anchors with the nails suggested by the manufacturer.
Fill the cores of the blocks with grout. Mortar holds masonry walls together, sealing out the elements and compensating for variations in the size of the materials. Premixed bags of mortar are useful for small projects, but uneconomical for larger projects like the wall featured here. Mortar is a mix of Portland cement, lime, sand, and water. The exact formula will vary with local conditions, particularly climate. Check with the code requirements in your area or consult local brick suppliers, masons, or contractors.
Again, locate any overhang on one side of the foundation. • Mark the location of the end bricks on the pilasters, note the gap between bricks, and remove the dry run. 2. Laying the leads. Start the wall by building a lead—or end structure —six courses high at each end of the wall. • Spread mortar on the tops of the end pilaster blocks and along 21/2 feet of the adjoining blocks. Set a 10-foot length of joint reinforcement 1 inch in from the end of the lead. • Following your dry-run pattern, lay a row of bricks around the rim of the pilaster.