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By Jon Harris, Brian Mooney

Essex is a county of contrasts and surprises, some distance faraway from the jokes and clich?s surrounding it. Journalist Brian Mooney and artist Jon Harris got down to have fun its humans, historical past, structure and geography via strolling each inch of its obstacles. even if tramping up the Maplin Sands, stumbling throughout an previous soldier residing wild within the woods, or vacationing a chapel on a lonely seawall, their tale is brimming with unforeseen encounters and vibrant surprises. beginning in Waltham Abbey, their stroll takes them down the outdated Essex border into London, alongside the Thames to the marshes, rivers and creeks of the japanese seaboard after which follows the Suffolk borders to the sides of Cambridge and Hertfordshire.

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Here we chose to follow the estuary wall as far as it would take us onto the wonderfully named Mucking Marshes; even though the map shows the pink dots of the path fading out at the jetty before Mucking Creek; the cry of seagulls and movement of dumping-trucks signalled that we were approaching another landfill site. Rather than back-track to East Tilbury, past the looming Bata shoe factory, we stepped gingerly out onto the Cleanaway moonscape. We were soon spotted attempting to sneak past the loading-jetties.

We were so far from the traffic above us that we actually couldn’t hear it. Down here was strangely quiet – just the lapping of the Thames against the concreted riverbank. After the bridge, we worked our way past refineries and industrial sites, and under, over and round their jetties, wharfs and loading pipes. At Stone Ness, we were confronted with the billowing smoke of the Procter & Gamble detergent plant at West Thurrock. This colourful giant seems to have sole charge of the riverside here – that is, until you notice the squat church tower, banded in contrasting stones and heavily buttressed up to its black flint bell-stage, in its lee.

I gazed up the massive concrete pillars of the northern approach viaduct. We were so far from the traffic above us that we actually couldn’t hear it. Down here was strangely quiet – just the lapping of the Thames against the concreted riverbank. After the bridge, we worked our way past refineries and industrial sites, and under, over and round their jetties, wharfs and loading pipes. At Stone Ness, we were confronted with the billowing smoke of the Procter & Gamble detergent plant at West Thurrock.

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