By Z Grosicki
Watson's cloth layout and color: straightforward weaves and figured materials used to be first released in 1912 and has been revised a number of instances through the unique writer and several good revered cloth specialists. This version revised by means of Z Grosicki has been rewritten, reorganised and new ways were further to permit a transparent knowing of the character of woven constructions. Watson's cloth layout and color is a entire treatise on basic woven textile development and layout.
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Additional resources for Watson's Textile Design and Colour, Seventh Edition: Elementary Weaves and Figured Fabrics
Sample text
This is achieved by doubling up two threads of weft on a pirn and inserting the double weft in lieu of the two single picks which are necessary in the proper warp rib construction. A special effect is sometimes obtained by having differently coloured threads wound alongside each other on the pirns. The withdrawal of the weft in the direction of the length of the pirn causes the threads to make one twist round each other*for every revolution made by them on the pirn or cop. The slight amount of twist thus inserted causes the colours to show intermittently in the cloth producing an irregular or streaky colour effect.
Thus, in F corresponding positions move one square downward and four squares outward each time; and as there are 8 picks in the weave there are: (8 -=- 1) x 4 = 32 ends in the repeat. In H there are 10 picks in the weave, and the move is 2 downward and 4 outward; therefore in the repeat there are: (10 -5- 2) x 4 = 20 ends. 13, in which the 3-and-3 twill is arranged 4 entered, 2 skipped, 2 entered, and 2 skipped. In the same manner, K shows a 9-thread twill arranged 6 entered, 3 skipped, 3 entered, and 3 skipped, and this example Development of Weaves from Elementary Bases 47 also illustrates that the system of construction is by no means limited to twills which are composed of equal warp and weft float, but can be used with good results in re-arranging the threads of almost any type of twill.
It will be readily appreciated that this particular form of transposition is only suitable for such repeats which are divisible by four. An entirely separate class of re-arranged twills is based on the sateen system of moves and most twills transposed in the sateen order tend to loose the distinctive diagonal line which is their feature in the original form. 18 the warp and the weft thread transposition is possible and the only limiting condition in the choice of twill is that it must repeat over the same number of threads as the sateen from which the order of the re-arrangement was derived.