Download Patternmaking for menswear by Gareth Kershaw PDF

By Gareth Kershaw

Designed for either scholars and execs, this ebook bargains a finished advisor to patternmaking for menswear from the fundamental talents via to extra complicated techniques.

The ebook comprises 20 entire styles that express how you can minimize each element of the menswear together with diversifications from uncomplicated slopers via to vintage clothing and trend-led types. utilizing a step by step strategy, illustrated with competently sized and scaled flat diagrams, technical residences and type illustrations, and pictures of muslins, it explains the idea at the back of the training permitting the reader to appreciate the best way to lower styles with confidence.

Illustrated all through, this booklet comprises every thing you must comprehend to make styles for modern-day menswear industry

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Rounded / slumped back The head is slumped forward with curved shoulders and a rounded upper back and hollow chest, which leads to a narrow chest with increased back length and width. Sloped or square shoulders Sloping shoulders will require an increase in the pitch of the shoulder slope from the armhole, while square shoulders will need a decrease in the pitch. Drop Drop is the term used to describe the ratio between the circumference of the chest and that of the waist. Identifying this will help you to visualize the silhouette of the figure: a larger waist than chest will give you a triangular silhouette; a waist that is the same as the chest will lead to a rectangular silhouette.

The silhouette is straight with no annotation or style lines added. 5cm) chest. This sloper will serve as a starting point for all the pant drafts in this book, or for your own designs. You can also use measurements from the size charts on pages 32–33 to make the sloper in a different size, or use your own measurements taken from your fit model or male dress form. The modern man has diligently followed fashion when it comes to how he wears his pants and jeans. From high-waisted to lowriding, the waistline seems to be in a state of cultural flux.

From (7) measure across 31⁄2in toward the side seam; make a mark and label it (A). From (A) square down to the hemline and label it grainline. This will also become one side of the pleat. • From (A) continue to measure across 15⁄8in for the pleat; make a mark and label it (B). The pleat width can be adjusted according to the fit required. • From (B) measure across the remainder of the front hip measurement minus 5⁄8in (43⁄8in – 5⁄8in = 33⁄4in) and label it (C). Shape down to (4). This is the outseam.

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